Marismeños and Retuertas
In the marshes and forests of Doñana National Park, where the Atlantic breeze stirs ancient pine groves and shifting dunes, two remarkable breeds of wild horse roam freely — the Marismeño and the Retuerta. Their presence adds both ecological value and cultural depth to this extraordinary landscape, just a short drive from Costa Ballena.
The Marismeño: Tradition on Hooves
The Marismeño horse is deeply rooted in the traditions of western Andalusia. Living in a semi-wild state year-round, these strong and hardy animals graze across the wetlands and woodlands of Doñana. Their characteristics — resilience, surefootedness, and endurance — are shaped by centuries of adaptation to a landscape defined by water, sand, and seasonal extremes.
The breed holds historical importance too. It is widely believed that Marismeño horses influenced the stock brought to the Americas by Spanish explorers during the colonial era.
But the most spectacular moment in the life of these horses arrives every 26th of June, during the Saca de las Yeguas (“The Gathering of the Mares”). On this date, local herders known as yegüerizos ride into the park to round up the mares and foals. The event, now officially protected as intangible cultural heritage, becomes a joyful procession through the village of El Rocío, complete with flamenco, horsemanship, and the blessing of the animals at the sanctuary of the Virgen del Rocío, before continuing to Almonte for the livestock fair.
It’s more than just a tradition — it’s a living expression of the bond between the people of Doñana and their land.
The Retuerta: A Genetic Time Capsule
Roaming the park alongside the Marismeños is a lesser-known but equally significant breed: the Retuerta. Considered one of the oldest horse breeds in Europe, the Retuerta has lived in near isolation for centuries. Its name comes from the retuertas — seasonally flooded meadows within the park that shape its grazing habits and survival patterns.
The Retuerta’s ancient lineage dates back over 3,000 years. These horses are slightly smaller and more primitive in appearance, with strong genetic ties to Iberian wild horses of antiquity. For decades, their numbers declined dangerously, but recent conservation efforts — including a parallel herd reintroduced to the Campanarios de Azaba reserve in Salamanca — have helped stabilise the population.
Today, Retuertas contribute to the park’s biodiversity by maintaining open ecosystems and preventing overgrowth — a natural, living part of Doñana’s ecological balance.
Wild Heritage That Endures
Seeing these horses in the wild — silhouetted against the marshes, their manes flowing in the coastal wind — is an unforgettable sight. They symbolise a unique fusion of nature, culture, and endurance. While the Retuertas remind us of Europe’s distant past, the Marismeños remain a vital part of Andalusia’s living heritage.
In Doñana, not all the wildness takes flight — some of it gallops.